“Let me tell you a story. She makes it. The end.” Unknown
Chileno Refugio to Mirador Base Las Torres to Puerto Natales
Today is our final day of hiking the W in Torres del Paine.
I woke up to my 5 am alarm with a knee swollen to the size of a grapefruit and an earache.
I thought I'm going to tell the team that I'm not going to the top. I’ll meet them on the way back. Then I rolled out of my sleeping bag, opened my tent, and the weather was warm and there was absolutely zero wind (a rarity in this area). I knew this was a gift from Mother Nature and I shouldn't miss it, no matter how tired I was or how much my knee hurt. It would more than likely be a clear view of the mountains and I didn’t want to miss it.
I went to the bathroom, brushed my teeth and took a selfie so if I died up there whoever found my phone would see me smiling back at them.
I dropped my bag off with all the others as I waited for my team.
They arrived right on time. What good teammates. We all turned on our headlamps and took off for the towers.
*I'm now receiving creative direction on my blog from Director James, whether I want it or not. He texted me and asked me to include this story.
As we began our walk, James said, “We are on a mission to find the man dressed in black.” I thought what does Johnny Cash have to do with our hike? Turns out he said “Justin Black.” I blame the earache.
At Central campsite, if you ask the night before, the staff will set out a breakfast to-go bag with your name on it for the sunrise hikers. They also leave a platter filled with slices of bread, meats, and cheeses. Well, apparently a guy named Justin Black (probably an American) was the only person who arrived at breakfast before the team (clue: he left his name tag behind and grabbed his to-go baggy). Mr. Black took all of the bread except for the “fat toast” (heels of the bread) as James calls it and the meat and cheese leaving nothing for the other hikers. The team was on a mission to find him and tell him off. I have a feeling James was going to stab him with his little blue trekking poles. He was mad. Hungry Hiker is not a good look, people.
Unfortunately, we never found him but Justin, if you are out there and reading this…on behalf of my hungry hiking team, your behavior is a big fat no, no in the book of hiker and human etiquette.
*Back to regular programming.
My knee was killing me and at one point James successfully (but accidentally - it was probably meant for Justin Black) stabbed me in my bad knee and I almost hit the ground in pain. I thought, maybe I've read him wrong the entire time…maybe he really is trying to kill me. Maybe he is a serial killer and I will die on this hike but by accident.
At one point we missed a marker and got off the trail because it was still dark and hard to see the path. We ended up scrambling up the side of the mountain. Literally. I actually thought I was going to die this time.
We had been warned that “scrambling” over the rocks was required at the end but this was actual mountain climbing. Thank goodness there was some daylight so we could see but it was terrifying. Come to think of it, maybe no light would have been better.
I was the last one in the line of climbers and at one point there was a small rock slide. A stone about the size of a softball started rolling my direction. I tucked my head down and thought, “This is it, I'm going to take a rock to the head and fall off the side of this damn mountain. It's over. Good thing I took that selfie so my loved one will remember me in happier times.”
Once the rock stopped short, I rolled over on my back and looked at the view. It's probably one of the most scary times of my life. I wasn't sure I'd make it up and I didn't see a way down. The perfect Catch-22.
A lovely, well-meaning French couple in an effort to provide assistance starts yelling (in a French accent), “You are off the path. Come left.”
Uh, yes, we are all acutely aware that we are now off the path but thank you for your assistance.
Nothing like making an already difficult climb, harder for yourself. Our Team is really winning at this hiking game. Ha!
I took another selfie when I thought I would die. Trying to keep a smile and provide some levity.
James was the fastest scrambler so we told him to go to the top without us and get some good photos of the sunrise. This time of year it rises at 8 am but in Dec and Jan, I was told it's at 4 am. Eww.
James’ photos did not disappoint. We were very fortunate to get a clear day. It was a nice gift from Mother Nature.
Below is a photo I snapped just as I rounded the corner to start heading down by the lake. It was breathtaking. I almost cried I was so overcome with emotion…from almost dying and now living.
It's crazy what we humans will endure to see little bits of magical nature.
The light changes quickly…seconds and minutes make a huge difference in the view.
We spent a little time at the top but it was cold. We needed a group photo to prove that The Trail of Mixed Nuts Hiking Team did it! 🥾 It looks like we have the legs of Gumby the cartoon. And in keeping with our theme, the photographer cut off James’ toe. Now that it poetic.
For comparison, this was taken by a hiker two days after us. We got very lucky to hike that far and see what we saw.
After we took our team photo and enjoyed the view, we started our descent. Surprisingly, it was much faster and easier than the climb up. Staying on the path has the effect, I guess. Huh, go figure.
We made it down the mountain to Chileno in record time. We stopped to grab my bag, enjoy some warm drinks, and take a bathroom break before carrying on.
Luckily, we saw more horses which was great for the rest of the team. They hadn't seen them yet.
On the way down we saw a ton of one day hikers on their way to the towers. They formed an actual line. It was crazy busy.
Once we made it to the bottom, the team had to go to the Central campsite to grab their bags. I went ahead to the Welcome Center where we waited for the first bus to take us to the actual station for the ride to town. I immediately saw Paul and William and sat with them, kicked off my shoes, and relaxed. Whew. We had officially made it.
When the others arrived we had a celebratory beer in honor of our big accomplishment.
Exhausted hikers waiting for the bus back to Puerto Natales.
When I arrived back at my amazing hostel, Hostal Camino de Santiago, in Puerto Natales, I was happily greeted by some friendly faces…the resident street dog, Rubio (he was left behind when his family moved and the neighborhood has adopted him), the neighbor’s sheep (S/he wears a collar), Jose, and Aunt Cristina. Claudio and his friend had decided to do the W so they were out hiking.
Jose (God bless him) surprised me with the best gift you could give a weary traveler…a private room. I paid for the dorm but he upgraded me for free! It was a nice welcome after such a strenuous hike. It's not what you know but who you know that makes the difference.
After everyone had time to rest and shower, we met for pizza and beer one last time. Everyone but James and I would be leaving the next morning so this was the grand finale for The Trail of Mixed Nuts Hiking Team.
We had a great time but it was a little sad realizing that it was over. Plus, we were all exhausted but a strong team sticks together until the end.
Using my phone Mike (long limbs) managed to take a screenshot selfie of us at the table. That was a new one for me but I think he has the potential to go Pro with this new technique.
Thank you all for your kind words and messages about my writing and storytelling of our trek on the W but it wouldn't have been half as good without all of these guys. A writer is nothing without a good subject. Not only did they provide hours of entertainment but they also touched my heart with their kindness, witty jokes, and friendship.
Forever in my heart and photo gallery, The Trail of Mixed Nuts Hiking Team. 🥾⛺ Gooooo Team! 🙌
That's a wrap (video)!
Much love & gratitude from Chile! 🇨🇱Namaste 🙏
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Some outtakes from the whole trip.
“It's only two more hours.”
“Oooops, that's my glove.”
“What is this? Who took this?”
Man down. Probably going to lose this little guy.
A great adventure with The Mixed Nuts. Love the name. Hope your ailments come right quickly.
Congratulations 🎊 👏 It is a stunning hike and I have loved revisiting it & seeing it through your eyes. 💝